The Pictorial Guide to our Trip to Kenya's East Coast

The lavish, mansion-esque abode that we rented for two nights in the coastal town of Shanzu, located just north of Mombasa.  Seven of us shared a fully furnished three bedroom home - each of us spending only $12.50 per person, per night.  Shanzu was beautiful and we were only a few minutes walk from the beaches of the Indian Ocean.  The home even had leather sofas and a flat-screened t.v. (which we only utilized on one occasion to watch a very outdated and anti-climatic movie about adoption staring a very young Glen Close and James Woods).  Midday of our arrival, I read in our Rough Guides book of Shanzu: "Don't expect authenticity, but do expect a fun half-day out in Kenya's only theme park.", this is a pretty dead on description of the place.  You can get camel rides on the beach and the coast line is peppered with what a local described as "plastic Maasai" - People of the Samburu tribe adorned in traditional Maasai clothing and accessory (which is pretty flamboyant) to attract tourists for photo taking.  On two different nights we had dinner at at the Moorings Restaurant, which had a cozy and buoyant (the entire place was built on a barge), candlelit ambiance and allowed you the option of dining underneath the stars.  

Our first day in Shanzu we went shopping for groceries to make lunch in our fully equipped kitchen.  The coast has a stunning selection of fresh fruit and vegetables.

The result of our day spent shopping and cooking: Tostones with bean dip, steamed fish and an avocado, tomato, onion, and mango salad.

From Shanzu we loaded up in a matatu (the local mini-van buses that are used as mass transport both within towns and across the country) to travel to central Mombasa.  They seat 14 plus the driver, but they often pack people in to maximize their revenue per trip.   Although this is illegal and they can be ticketed, so they often stop just short of a possible police checkpoint and dump off a few passengers. This a view from the back of a matatu - and this is a very typical scenario (although the person snapping the camera would usually be too squished in between other passengers to break out a camera :) A matatu ride might run you anywhere from 10 Kenyan shillings for a very short trip to 400 KSh for a four hour ride, for example from Nairobi to Nanyuki.  80 KSh = $1.  Very affordable.  Photo credit: Paria

This is an outside view of Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese in 1593 and subsequently under continuous assault and takeover by  the Swahili, other local peoples, and the Omani princes.  

Some ruins within the Fort.

Authentic Portuguese paintings, although it looks like there has been some touch up work (magic marker ?).

View of the dhow harbor from Fort Jesus.  Historically this port would have been crammed with traditional dhow boats - no longer the case due to the efficiency of the engine.

Maria in ruins.

Swahili carved doors.

After leaving the Fort, we walked almost the entirety of the Old Town area.  There was some beautiful architecture, and the narrow and winding streets were so peaceful due to it being a Sunday.

After our stay in Shanzu and visit to Mombasa, we hopped on another couple of matatus and headed a couple of hours north to the coastal town of Watamu.  We were surprised to be greeted in Italian upon our arrival.  There were even pizza places and gelato shops (!), and the menus were written in Italian.  Apparently this laid back town in a favorite destination of resort-going Italians and has a large Italian ex-pat population.  As soon as we set foot on the the main street, Captain Ali befriended us and led us to a suite of rooms right along the beach.  He gestured to two complexes and said, "One is for Italians and the other is for everyone else." We each spent about $8.75 to fall asleep to the sounds of the Indian Ocean.  We spent two nights here and were so happy to be able to safely stroll the sleepy streets at night, hopping from one food stand to the next, eating the local favorites of samosas, chapati, and grilled meat.  Bennett finally was able to have his long-craved-for meat on a stick (9 in total!)

The Indian Ocean

A tuk tuk is another transportation option.  In fact it was a tuk tuk that swiftly carried us from central Mombasa to Moi International Airport, to catch our flight to Nairobi.  We arrived with not a minute to spare (we literally checked in 20 minutes before our scheduled departure - and we only got there that early because the tuk tuk was able to weave in and out of the endless rows of traffic).  I guess the tuk tuk is an Asian import - a row of seats mounted on the back of a three-wheeled motor scooter.  Photo credit: Paria

Bennett and I in the Indian Ocean.  It was as warm and calm as bath water.  Photo credit: Paria

Bennett preparing to get his feet wet.

Anyone for a camel ride?

The Gedi ruins located just east of Watamu.  Here featured, some of what remains from the abandoned and enigmatic Swahili town dated to between the 13th and 17th centuries.  It remained unacknowledged, even during the height of its prosperity, by the Portuguese who had taken over the town of Malindi only 15 km away.  The ruins are shaded by giant baobab trees, and the curious Sykes monkeys keep you entertained.  Photos of monkeys and Gedi courtesy of our friends Paria and Matt who thankfully brought their camera that day!  

The Sykes monkey is really enjoying that banana - the rumors are true.

Bennett and the Sykes monkey teamed up to provide some entertainment :)